Jil Sander Menswear Fall 2012
Jil Sander showed their Fall 2012 menswear collection during Milan Fashion Week. Raf Simon explored his darker side in fashion this season. Black fabrics, black leather and other industrial-age fabrics hit the runway. It was another tour de force of tailoring for the Belgian designer, one of men’s wear’s most intrepid innovators, and still tipped as the front-runner to become the next couturier at Christian Dior in Paris. Simons said backstage he was keen to explore archetypal male clichés: the businessman, the father, the office nerd. Their wardrobes hinged on more formal fare: handsome greatcoats, sculpted suits with intricately seamed backs, and pristine shirts and ties. Simons made a convincing case for a variety of proportions, from pencil slim to voluminous and flaring. Longer line coats, either tightly cinched or hanging straight, were a major statement — and his loose leather peacoats and parkas were terrific. Asking if there was a bit too much black leather is like asking if The Village People liked disco.